Is it 'scent'sible?

Synthetic fragrance, often labelled parfum, can contain around 100 chemicals and often includes phthalates.

Phthalates can be used in products as fragrance carriers which means that industry does not have to list them on the label as they can be included under the generic term 'fragrance' or 'parfum'. They can also be used in fragrance to make the alcohol unpalatable. Some researchers suggest phthalates can act as hormone disruptors and have linked them to premature puberty and reproductive disorders.

Manufacturers are keen to keep any ingredients they can a trade secret to protect themselves from their competitors. Most therefore keep the ingredients of a fragrance confidential.

Some cosmetic manufacturers buy 'smells' from fragrance houses. The scent of their product is then the perfume supplier's trade secret and even the manufacturer may not know the contents.

Lush make their own fragrances. Director Karl Bygrave said: "We like using essential oils. Although you can't make therapeutic claims for a beauty product we like to use oils like lavender because we know it's relaxing.

Toxicologist Says

"Parfum causes extra concern because we breathe it in and 100% of what we inhale is considered 'dose' in toxicology. I think manufacturers should list all the ingredients of a fragrance but they might need a big label!" - Toxicologist Professor Vyvyan Howard

"Although at Lush we make our own fragrances we don't list everything that makes up the smell on the label because we don't want others in the industry to copy us."

Some fragrance ingredients are considered likely to cause skin reactions in susceptible people. Since 2005, if these are included above a certain level in a product then the manufacturer must add them to the ingredients list on the label in addition to the term 'parfum'.

CTPA Director General Dr Flower said: "This way of labelling helps people with allergies to make informed choices about the products they buy."