Interview: "The link between retouched images and anorexia is tenuous"
Professional retoucher John Deaville talks frankly about airbrushing in the future and whether it's a problem.
Q: How much of your work is about slimming and perfecting people?
Retouching is about improving what was originally shot so with regards to editorial fashion 100% is making the imperfect more 'perfect' in whatever capacity that means. Generally, I don't really think that you are slimming people dramatically, but it obviously depends who and what you are advertising. You are selling a product or an image, so everyone involved wants to make it look as good as possible.
I generally clean up the way clothes hang, usually the supplier gives you clothes that are too big so you have to take them in so that they hang nicely in an aesthetic manner, without bulges and creases. Models are pretty slim so you would not make them look slimmer, often you elongate the legs which can be (made to look shorter) by the photographic lens used.
Q: As a retoucher do you ever worry that 'airbrushing' is going too far?
I think that when I was training as a photographer, everyone used film and retouching was hugely expensive, so you tried to get it correct on film - now in the age of digital, everyone thinks they can correct it in Photoshop, but the results are never as good. I spent three weeks retouching a brochure for a fashion label and was pretty happy with the results - unfortunately when I gave it to the graphic designer she screwed the whole thing up because the client asked her to put smiley faces on all the models. They asked me (to do it) but I said it would look shit - and guess what - I was right
You can do anything in Photoshop, but from my perspective, if it does not look realistic it is not worth doing. Overusing it can ruin the whole thing.
Q: Are you aware of the current discussion between magazine publications on a voluntary 'ban' on airbrushing? Do you think this would be possible?
I don't think that the current debate about 'airbrushing' is a valid one. Most 'celebrities' want to retain some foothold over what is published or not, so the idea that there will be 'no' retouching is nonsense, they may decide to place a limitation on the amount of body reshaping. I think that certain magazines talk the talk because it is just a current issue.
I think that the link between retouched images and anorexia and other body dysmorphia issues is tenuous, if you are selling a product to adults, and that is essentially what commercial photography is, you want it to look the best, a designer who designs a great outfit wants to display it in the best possible way, I can understand that
One problem is the way that children have increasingly become consumerised - and that is the problem I suppose rather than the way products are advertised to adults.
Q: When working with certain publications or advertisers do you notice particular trends in airbrushing?
The editorial magazines generally don't alter stuff that much, the high class fashion magazines probably don't either because the models they use are professionals who get paid to look great, apart from obviously tidying everything up the only magazines that heavily retouch are the lads glamour magazines like FHM and Stuff because frankly some of those girls don't photograph that great out of the can.
Obviously - retouching can go too far, but I don't necessarily see anything wrong with that, you are working toward a goal, and you use whatever tool is going to help you achieve that.
Picture credit: John Deaville
"Kate Moss gets paid a lot of money to keep herself thin and pretty, she isn't there to represent real women, and I think most adults realise that - I'd like to look like Brad Pitt, but it ain't going to happen"
John Deaville is a freelance picture retoucher known as 'Photofixer'. He has worked on editorial stories and advertising campaigns with clients including BBC, Channel 4, Thorntons, British Airways and British and international magazines. Deaville has been retouching and manipulating photographs since 2000 and has a background mainly in fashion retouching.
To see John's work visit his website - www.photofixer.co.uk - and see campaigns featuring Lily Cole and Keira Knightley. Roll over the images to see the difference!